The GT1R Dual Pump BPC Harness is very similar to the single pump harness, but incorporates a second fuel pump control module as well. Some interior removal will be required, and will depend on your BPC mounting location. The installation will be easier if you remove the passenger seat, passenger side kick panel trim, glove box, passenger side rear seat bottom panel, and passenger side interior rear quarter panel trim piece. You will also need to remove the battery to install some of the components, and it is advised to leave the battery disconnected throughout the installation process.
The power wiring is done identically to the single pump harness, with one minor change. The second fuel pump control module needs it's own power and ground wires, so we are stacking the power wire (8) on top of the 4ga main power wire (2) on the BPC, using a provided longer bolt and aluminum spacer, as you can see below. The standard flat washer and beveled spring washer will still be used, as they are on all of the ring terminals on the BPC:
The main power wiring is done exactly how the single pump system is done:
Cable 4 is a local ground strap for the BPC controller. The chassis side location will vary depending on if you are mounting the BPC under the passenger seat or in the trunk, but there are easy to find ground locations in each. The BPC side will connect to the "-" hole location, which you can see on the far right side of the unit:
If installing in the passenger floorboard area, there is a bolt and corresponding bolt hole that can be used for your grounding location on the door sill. Remove the bolt, sand any primer/paint off, and the ground cable can be routed as you see below:
The 4ga cable (1) will connect to the positive battery terminal and one terminal of the circuit breaker (3), as you can see below. The easiest method of routing is simply to run the cable underneath the small fuse box in front of the battery and over to the breaker. The breaker will attach to the left side of the battery compartment in an existing hole, using the provided bolt:
The long power cable (2) that will run from the opposite side of the circuit breaker, through the firewall, under the carpet, along the passenger kick panel, and back to the BPC. This cable will connect to the "+" location on the BPC. If you are mounting the BPC in the trunk, you will need to route the cable back through the rear bulkhead in one of the holes along the bottom. The firewall has a hole behind the battery that we open up, and finish with a grommet to suit:
This hole is typically used for passing a number of additional harnesses through, so you will need to determine the correct diameter and grommet to suit your needs.
With the power wiring done, we can move to the rest of the harness. Harnesses 5 and 6 can be installed on the BPC, and harness 6 should be connected as shown here:
Everything is connected to the BPC now and you can begin routing everything to the back of the car. In the picture below you get a good idea of how everything will end up, it's actually very straight forward. Route all of the remaining harnesses and components along the door sill and then up to the fuel tank access panel area:
With the same overall picture from above it's easy to see how things connect and mount:
The second fuel pump control module (10) will be mounted on the chassis using the supplied velcro and you can see it's corresponding harness 7 is run over to the fuel hat, where it will mate with the fuel pump hanger.
The OEM Nissan fuel pump control module (silver box behind 11 above) will be unplugged and the harness side will be mated with connector/harness 5.
With both fuel pump control module connectors now handled, you can mate both ends of connector assembly 9, which is a single communication wire between both modules.
The second control module ground wire (8) will be locally grounded, which you can see.
Item 11 is the 2-pin connector/harness that connects the primary pump harness to the M1 ECU via CAN. The long CAN harness can be routed along the kick panel all the way up to the glovebox area. At the ECU itself, you will have the CAN harness terminating at our CAN Expander (12), and then into the "PWR/CAN" connector on the M1 harness, as seen below:
The CAN expander is not required to be used here, but does make things easier if you are using another CAN device at the ECU.
As we did with harness 7, harness 6 will route to the fuel tank access hat and terminate at the connectors on the hanger.
One of the six-pin connectors has a red, white, and black short open lead which will need to be mated with your chassis side fuel temp, fuel level, and grounds. We have included the butt connectors and shrink to perform this operation. Your OEM fuel hat connector will need to have these three 22ga wires cut out to terminate in the butt connectors. The OEM white wire will terminate to the red wire, your light blue wire will terminate to white, and your blue wire will terminate to black.
If you purchased the harness along with our in-tank system we have handled all of the internal pump wiring as well (15). If you are buying the harness separately, please use the guide below to populate the two internal connectors:
