The second generation GT1R Flex Fuel kit is an extremely easy kit to install, but should only be attempted by a qualified technician. If you are not 100% comfortable with this installation, please have someone qualified perform the work. When you are working on any automotive fuel system there is a risk of fire, which needs to be taken seriously. All necessary lines, fittings, mounting hardware, sensors, and wiring are included and are plug and play.
The first thing you want to do is relieve the system of pressure. There are a number of ways to do this, but typically it's easiest to just disconnect a line at the firewall. There are two fuel lines coming up on the pass side of the firewall, one is bigger than the other. ON A COOL ENGINE, put a rag over the larger line and disconnect the fitting, allowing the rag to catch the fuel that leaks out.
This version is meant to be installed on the feed side of your fuel system. To begin installation remove the intake manifold, and then the large rubber hose for the secondary air system that runs through the large grommet near the center of the firewall. You can leave this hose hooked up on the opposite side, but it must be pulled through the grommet. This hose will be reused so do not discard.
This generation of the Flex Fuel kit no longer requires splicing into any part of the factory harness. The converter box is installed on the connector of the secondary air pump flow meter, which is located in the battery compartment. The converter box must be installed with the connector facing down, as seen in the picture below:
You will unplug the factory connector going to the air flow meter. The black plug seen above will now plug into the factory connector on the harness side. The smaller white plug on the kit harness will plug into the converter box, as seen above. The last connector runs to the ethanol content sensor in the engine bay. You can route this through the backside of the battery compartment area to the large factory grommet in the center of the engine bay where the rubber hose was pulled through earlier.
You will now install the shorter of the two provided fuel lines and the fuel rail adapter. Install the provided fuel rail adapter and then the ORB to AN fitting on the backside of the Bank 1 (passenger side) fuel rail.
The 120* fitting side of this line will be installed on the rail side, and the 180* fitting will later be installed on the driver side of the ethanol content sensor. The 120* fitting should be installed and the line should be routed behind the large factory wire loom as seen below:
You may now route the large secondary air system hose back through the grommet and reinstall completely. The intake manifold can now be reinstalled. You will now install the ethanol content sensor on the back of the intake manifold as seen in the picture below. The ethanol content sensor is mounted upside down on the provided bracket and is bolted to the intake manifold. Install one of the three EFI fittings on each side of the ethanol content sensor.
The remaining fuel line is run from the factory hard fuel line closest to the front of the engine bay to the left side of the ethanol content sensor, as seen above. Install the last EFI adapter fitting on both the factory hard line and route the hose as seen above. Install the 180* fitting to the right side of the ethanol content sensor.
There are two versions of the EFI adapter fittings that can be used on the OEM line and sensor which vary slightly in how they secure. The first version can be seen below and which functions by mating the top and bottom of the adapter between the barb portion of the hard line/sensor:
The second version actually clips the lower portion of the adapter directly on the barb before mating with the top portion of the fitting:
With all the parts installed you can now connect the large brown connector to the sensor. You are now ready to check for fuel leaks and start tuning!