WARNING – READ EVERYTHING BELOW!!
Installation of this kit is very simple and straight forward, but there are a few things you need to understand about what you and your vehicle are doing when this Brake Boost kit is in use. ‘Brake Boosting’ is the act of building boost while holding your speed steady by applying the brakes on the vehicle. In stock form, this is not possible as the ecu closes the throttle when the brakes are applied, regardless of pedal position. Because this kit allows you to go WOT (Wide Open Throttle) with the brakes applied, it’s possible to make as much torque as your engine/turbo setup is capable of while at a steady speed. As you can imagine, this is hard on the brakes. Excessive use of this system WILL cause brake wear. Because of the incredible braking system on the R35, you have the ability to ‘hold’ over 850lb/ft of torque easily!
There appears to be a misconception that this is hard on the clutch, but this is false. ‘Brake Boosting’ is no harder on the clutch than making full boost under acceleration. If your clutch is inadequate then you will have issues regardless.
It’s highly recommended that you test the brake boosting while datalogging and later review the logs for knock. Holding an engine at full boost at a steady rpm is harder on things and will make tuning that much more critical. While brake boosting it is possible for the engine to see load in areas of your fuel and ignition maps were not seen on the dyno, and consequently areas of the tune that need to be ‘fine tuned’. If you record engine knock while brake boosting, send the log to your tuner and have the tune corrected.
We DO NOT recommend using this in Auto mode on the transmission and letting it downshift while on the brake.
(1) T1 Brake Boost Module
(2) T1 Wireless Remotes
(1) T1 Module Mounting Bracket
(1) M8 x 1.25 Nut
(1) Male to Male Insulated Spade Connector
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal - do not ignore this step. The wires you're unpinning are hot and if they touch a ground it will blow a fuse.
(2) Unplug the white electrical connector from the brake pedal switch under the dash.
(3) Unpin the blue wire from the electrical connector. Do this by lifting up on the terminal lock from the side opposite the wire, with a small pointy tool. When you pry up on the white lock in the center, the wire/terminal can be pulled out from the back side. This does not take much force, if it’s hard to get out then you don’t have the lock up far enough.
(4) Plug this wire you just disconnected into the red wire on the brake boost module. This connection will be two female terminals (one that you just disconnected and one from the module) with a male/male insulated adaptor in between.
(5) Plug the white wire on the module into the white connector where you just removed the blue wire from. This will press in to the connector from the wire side, in the same location as the wire you just removed. Be sure this terminal is pressed all the way in and it locks. Pull on it once you’re done and it should not come out. Plug the white connector back in to the brake switch.
(6) Bolt the mounting bracket to the top left stud near the brake pedal on the firewall. Put it over the factory nut and put the supplied nut on top to lock it down in position.
(7) Test the module. Hold the ‘off’ button on the remote control and try to start the car. If it won’t start, you either did it right or you messed something up. Let go of the off button and try again, if it starts, you are done and deserve a pat on the back.
The objective of brake boosting is to allow the engine to build boost while holding vehicle speed steady. This comes in handy if you wanted to race someone from a ‘roll’ (on a closed course like the Texas Invitational Event of course) As you are preparing to race, get the car in whatever gear you want to leave in and hold the ‘off’ button on the remote. While this button is held, you can go full throttle and modulate the brake pedal to maintain your desired speed. When you let off the brake, the car instantly leaves with full boost rather than leaving with no boost and having to build boost once you go full throttle. Once you’re off the brake, you no longer need to hold the ‘off’ button on the remote.
Again, keep in mind that this is hard on the brakes and will generate a lot of heat in the engine. Don’t be dumb and sit at full boost, placing a heavy load on both the engine and the brakes, for an excessive amount of time. You should not need to brake boost for more than a few seconds at a time. If you need to come off the throttle and get back on it you can, as long as you hold the ‘off’ button on the remote this remains active.